Board and Batten

Board and Batten

Learn how to add decorative board and batten to a blank wall with Carmen De La Paz’s instructions.


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This project adds wood panels to walls in the Board and Batten style. One wall is 63½” and the other is 83½”. The steps shown are for the 63½” wall. They can be repeated or modified to accommodate the size of your walls using the same steps.

Required:
Jigsaw
Brad Nail gun with 18 Gauge 1½” brads

Difficulty: Difficult

Materials
Utility plywood panel 1/8” x 4’ x 70”
Utility plywood panel 1/8” x 4’ x 15½”
(2) 1” x 4” x 63½” Lumber – baseboard/top trim with 45° mitered corner if it meets a wall
1” x 4” x 64” Lumber – Ledge with 45° mitered corner if it meets a wall
1” x 4” x 56½” Lumber – Inner horizontal trim
(2) 1” x 4” x 63” Lumber – Side trim
(2) 1” x 4” x 47½” Lumber – Large vertical trim
(2) 1” x 4” x 12” Lumber – Small vertical trim
Semi-gloss interior paint – Color of your choice
Construction adhesive with dispenser
Caulk with dispenser
Wood filler
Spackle knife
Paint tray
Paint roller
Paintbrush
Painters tape
Tape measure
Pencil
4’ Level
Safety glasses

Instructions

ADDING THE BACK PANELS:

1. Paint both sides of the back panels with paint in the color of your choice. Painting both sides will stop the panel curling from one-sided shrinkage

2. If there is a plug socket, a hole will need to be cut in the panel before it’s attached to the wall. Measure from the edge of the wall to the side of the plug socket and make a note of the measurement. Measure from the floor to the bottom of the socket and make a note of the measurement. These measurements will now need to be transferred onto the panel (See diagram below)

3. Place a wall socket cover on the back panel using your measurement marks from Step 2 as placement reference. Trace around the wall socket cover

4. You will need a drill and jigsaw to make the hole in the panel. Drill two holes into opposite corners of the marked out wall socket. These holes will allow the jigsaw to fit through to position the blade for cutting. (See image below)

5. Put on your safety glasses. Slide the blade of the jigsaw into the drill hole and saw along one straight edge. Place the blade back in the drill hole and drill a wide curve over to the adjacent edge and down into the corner. This will line the blade up for you to remove the first piece. Continue sawing in curves until you have access to all four corners and the hole is made (See images below)

6. Once the hole is cut, apply a line of construction adhesive around the entire back of the panel, ½” from the edge. Also add a line of adhesive around the socket hole and in a squiggly line over the back. Press the panel to the wall making sure to line up the plug socket with the hole in the panel, the edge of the wall and the floor. Place a 4’ level on top of the panel to make sure it’s straight

7. Put on your safety glasses. Using a brad nail gun, secure the panel to the wall with 18 gauge 1½” brads placed ½” – 1” from the edge. Space each nail 6” – 9” apart along each side. The nails will hold the panel to the wall while the adhesive dries.

8. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for adding the second, smaller panel flush with the first panel

ADDING THE BASEBOARD, SIDE TRIM AND TOP TRIM:

Refer to the picture below as a placement guide:

9. Apply construction adhesive to the long, flat side of 1” x 4” x 63½” lumber (Baseboard) and press it onto the wall panel flush with the floor. Check with a 4’ level that it is straight. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a brad nail gun with 18 gauge 1½” brads (See diagram below)

Tip: If the baseboard isn’t quite level with the floor, wedge a paint key under one end of it to raise it slightly until it’s level. Nail it in place before removing the paint key

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10. Apply construction adhesive to the long, flat side of 1” x 4” x 63” lumber (Side trim) and press it onto the side edge of the wall panel flush and at 90° to the baseboard. Check with a 4’ level that it is straight. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a brad nail gun with 18 gauge 1½” brads in the same configuration as Step 9. Repeat this step for the opposite side trim

11. Apply construction adhesive to the long, flat side of 1” x 4” x 63½” lumber (Top trim) and press it onto the top edge of the wall panel flush with the tops of the side trim. Check with a 4’ level that it is straight. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a brad nail gun with 18 gauge 1½” brads in the same configuration as Step 9.

ADDING THE BATTEN:

Note: The batten will be built up in sections. Each section will show a diagram with the pieces of lumber (aka “sticks”) to be added highlighted in red. The pieces of lumber needed for each section will also be listed. Refer to the diagrams for reference as you follow the steps.

12. You will need 1” x 4” x 56½” Lumber. Measure 12” down from the top trim and mark with a pencil. This will be the position of the 56½” lumber (Inner horizontal trim). Apply construction adhesive to the long, flat side of 1” x 4” x 56½” lumber and position it between the side trim with the top edge at the 12” mark. Check with a 4’ level that it is straight. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a brad nail gun with 18 gauge 1½” brads in the same configuration as Step 9 (See diagram below)

13. You will need (2) 1” x 4” x 12” Lumber. Measure 16½” in from both side trim edges, along the Inner horizontal trim fitted in Step 12, and mark with a pencil. These will be the positions of the 12” lumber (Small vertical trim). Apply construction adhesive to the long, flat side of 1” x 4” x 12” lumber and position it between the top trim and inner horizontal trim at one of the 16½” marks. Check with a 4’ level that it is straight. Repeat for the second 12” piece. Check with a tape measure that both small vertical trims are evenly spaced 16½” apart. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a brad nail gun with 18 gauge 1½” brads in the same configuration as Step 9 (See diagram below)

14. You will need (2) 1” x 4” x 47½” Lumber. Apply construction adhesive to the long, flat side of 1” x 4” x 47½” lumber and position it between the inner horizontal trim and the baseboard, directly under a 12” small vertical trim. Check with a 4’ level that it is straight. Repeat for the second 47½” piece. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a brad nail gun with 18 gauge 1½” brads in the same configuration as Step 9 (See diagram below)

ADDING THE TOP LEDGE:

15. Apply a line of construction adhesive along the top of the trim and position the 1” x 4” x 64” Lumber on top of it to make a ledge. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a brad nail gun with 18 gauge 1½” brads in a row. Space the nails 4” – 6” apart starting 1” in from an edge (See image below)

FINISHING TOUCHES:

16. Apply wood filler over the join where the two back panels meet and allow to dry for 2 – 4 hours or until completely dry (See image below)

17. Fill in any gaps with caulking along the top of the ledge where it meets the wall. Also add caulking to fill in any gaps between the trim and the back panels. Allow to dry 24 – 48 hours before moving on to the next step

18. Paint over the entire board and batten with semi-gloss interior paint in the color of your choice

ADDITIONAL WALL:

19. If you decided at the beginning of the project that you are going to continue the board and batten pattern onto an adjacent wall, you will have selected mitered corners for your baseboard/top trim and ledger. Cut the baseboard/top trim and ledger for the second wall to

20. correspond with the 45° mitered corners of the first wall. Repeat all steps to continue the pattern onto a second wall (See images below)

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