DIY Mediterranean Mantel

DIY Mediterranean Mantel

Bring a Mediterranean twist to your traditional fireplace mantel with this DIY project!


5 col

Difficulty
Difficult

Materials
Pre-cut lumber and molding, including:

For mantel frame:
1” x 18” x 80” lumber (top)
1” x 8” x 72” lumber (front)
(2) 1” x 8” x 15” lumber (sides)
1” x 14” x 72” lumber (base)

For front trim:
1” x 3” x 73 1/2” true-size inside edge with 45-degree mitered corners
Crown molding 73 1/2” inside edge with 45-degree mitered corners
Chair molding 73 1/2” inside edge with 45-degree mitered corners
Cove molding 73 1/2” inside edge with 45-degree mitered corners

For side trim:
(2) 1” x 3” x 15” true-size inside edge with 45-degree mitered corner at one end
(2) Crown molding 15” inside edge with 45-degree mitered corner at one end
(2) Chair molding 15” inside edge with 45-degree mitered corner at one end
(2) Cove molding 15” inside edge with 45-degree mitered corner at one end
(2) Decorative corbels
Nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails
Drill with 1/4” bit and Phillips head bit
Small box 1 1/2” wood screws
Wood glue
Construction adhesive with dispenser
Caulk with dispenser
Paint and primer in one, color of choice
Paintbrush
Painter’s tape
Tape measure
Yardstick
Pencil
Safety glasses
Plaster* (if needed before start of project)
Putty knife* (if needed before start of project)
Jigsaw

Instructions

*Before starting this project, remove any existing trim and small corbels from the mantel and fill any gaps or holes with plaster. Allow the plaster to cure for 24 hours before continuing.

EXTENDING THE MANTEL BASE AND HEIGHT:

1. To extend the base of the mantel, a new 1” x 14” x 72” lumber will be cut to fit under the pre-existing base. Measure 3” in along the 72” edge and mark with a pencil. Measure 8” down from the first 3” and mark with a pencil. Repeat on the opposite side. Connect the ends of the two 8” marks using a yardstick to make a straight line (See diagram below)

2. Put on safety glasses. Use a jigsaw to cut along the pencil lines from Step 1 to make the new mantel base

3. Hold the new base up to the underside of the mantel so the 3” ends are flush with the wall. Secure the new base to the pre-existing mantel using a drill with a Phillips head bit and 1 1/2” wood screws. Space the wood screws every 12”-14” (See images below)

4. To attach the front of the mantel, hold the 1” x 8” x 72” lumber up to the front edge of the new base. Secure the mantel front to the new base using a drill with a Phillips head bit and 1 1/2” wood screws. Space the wood screws every 12”-14” (See images below)

5. To add a new side to the mantel, hold 1” x 8” x 15” lumber up to the side of the new base with the side edge flush with the new mantel front. Secure the side to the new base and front using a drill with a Phillips head bit and (4) 1 1/2” wood screws. Repeat on the opposite side of the mantel with a second piece of 1” x 8” x 15” lumber (See images below)

ADDING CHAIR MOLDING:

6. Apply two lines of wood glue to the back of the 73 1/2” chair molding. Press the molding onto the front of the mantel, flush with the bottom edge. The 45° mitered corners will be slightly longer than the 73 1/2” edge. Put on safety glasses and secure in place using a nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails spaced every 6”-8” (See images below)

7. Apply two lines of wood glue to the back of one 15” chair molding. Press the molding onto the side of the mantel, flush with the bottom edge. Check to make sure the 45° mitered corner is lined up with the mitered corner of the front chair molding. Secure in place using a nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails spaced every 3”-4”. Repeat this step for adding chair molding to the opposite side of the mantel (See images below)

ADDING DECORATIVE LUMBER:

8. Apply two lines of wood glue to the long side of the 1” x 3” x 73 1/2” lumber. Press the lumber onto the front of the mantel, flush with the top of the chair molding from Step 6. The 45° mitered corner will be in line with the chair molding mitered corner. Secure in place using a nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails spaced every 6”-8” (See image below)

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9. Apply two lines of wood glue to the back of one 1” x 3” x 15” lumber. Press the lumber onto the side of the mantel, flush with the top of the chair molding from Step 7. Check to make sure the 45° mitered corner is lined up with the mitered corner of the 1” x 3” x 73 1/2” lumber. Secure in place using a nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails spaced every 3”-4”. Repeat this step for adding 1” x 3” x 15” lumber to the opposite side of the mantel (See images below)

ADDING THE MANTEL TOP:

10. Add a line of wood glue around the top edge of the mantel frame. Center the 1” x 18” x 80” lumber on top with the back flush against the wall and 3” overhang on each side (See images below)

ADDING CROWN MOLDING:

11. Apply two lines of wood glue to the top and bottom edges of the 73 1/2” crown molding. Press the crown molding onto the front of the mantel, flush with the top of the decorative lumber from Step 8. The top of the crown molding will rest under the mantel top and overhang by 1”. The 45° mitered corner will be in line with the decorative lumber mitered corner. Secure in place using a nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails spaced every 6”-8” along the bottom edge of the crown molding. Add additional brad nails at the ends

12. Apply two lines of wood glue to the top and bottom edges of the 15” crown molding. Press the crown molding onto the side of the mantel, flush with the top of the decorative lumber from Step 9. The top of the crown molding will rest under the mantel top and overhang by 1”. Secure in place using a nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails spaced every 3”-4”. Repeat this step for adding 1” x 3” x 15” lumber to the opposite side of the mantel (See images below)

ADDING COVE MOLDING:

13. Apply a line of wood glue along the 73 1/2” edge of the cove molding. Press the cove molding onto the top of the crown molding, flush with its front edge and top of mantel. Secure in place using a nail gun 18-gauge with 1 1/4” brad nails spaced every 6”-8” along the top edge of the cove molding. Repeat along the side edges with 15” cove molding (See images below)

ADDING THE CORBELS:

14. Corbels are the decorative supports that are added under the mantel. Using a drill with a 1/4” bit, drill a pilot hole into the topside of the corbel and a second hole on the opposite side. Repeat for the second corbel (See image below and image in Step 15)

15. Apply construction adhesive to the back and top of a corbel. Position it under the mantel centered to one side of the fireplace (See images below)

16. Secure the corbel in place using a drill with a Phillips head bit and 1 1/2” wood screws (See images below)

17. Repeat Steps 16-17 for attaching the second corbel

FILLING GAPS AND PAINTING:

18. If there are any gaps between the trims, place painter’s tape in a row either side of the gap. Run a line of caulk over the gap and smooth out with your finger. Remove the painter’s tape. The painter’s tape will help to avoid excess caulk adhering to other parts of the trim. Allow the caulk to dry for at least 12 hours before moving on to the next step (See images below)

19. Before painting the mantel and corbels, protect the surrounding wall with rows of painter’s tape placed flush to the mantel’s edge. Paint the mantel and corbels the color of your choice. Allow the paint to dry for at least 12 hours before decorating the mantel (See images below)

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