Entertainment Unit Add-on Shelving

Entertainment Unit Add-on Shelving

Dress up your entertainment unit with this step-by-step for additional shelving.


5 col

We upgrade a dated entertainment built-in by adding a top section for a modern design. Measurements listed are for the unit shown. Your measurements will vary depending on the size of your current unit and whether or not you have a vaulted ceiling.

Materials
(3) 1”x22”x20” poplar lumber — sides and center panels
1”x22½”x93” — poplar lumber — top panel
1”x21¼”x93” — poplar lumber — bottom panel
1”x13½”x93” — poplar lumber — back panel
1”x2”x93” — poplar lumber — back support
1”x4”x93” — poplar lumber — back cleat with 45-degree mitered edge
(2) 1”x4”x36” — poplar lumber — wall cleat with 45-degree mitered edge
1” x 2” x 93” — poplar lumber — trim
(3) 1”x2”x19” — poplar lumber —trim
14’7½” crown molding with 45-degree mitered corners
(2) 22” crown molding with 45-degree mitered corner
4-foot level
#8 countersink drill bit
Large box 1 1/2-inch wood screws
Brad nailer
18 gauge 1 1/4-inch brad nails
Handsaw
Circular saw
Wood glue
(2) Carpenter squares
(2) Bar clamps
Stud finder
Small box 3-inch coarse thread drywall screws
Small putty knife
Wood filler
Paint and primer in one — interior semi-gloss, color of your choice
Large decorator’s paintbrush
Large drop cloth
Decorator’s tape
Roll of decorative wallpaper
Spray glue
Scissors
Ruler
Pencil

Instructions

Steps 1-13 build an upper shelving section to bridge the gap at the top of a pre-existing entertainment unit. The upper shelving section will be built as a freestanding piece —installed in Steps 14-16.

Cutting the Sides and Center Panels:
The existing entertainment unit shown is built against a wall with a vaulted ceiling. The sides and center panel (3 total) need to be cut to accommodate the slant.

  1. Take a piece of 1”x22”x21¼” poplar lumber and measure 13 1/2 inches along the 22-inch edge. Mark with a pencil. With a ruler, draw a diagonal line from the pencil mark to the top of the opposite corner of the panel. Use a handsaw to cut along the pencil line and remove the excess wood. Repeat for all three pieces

Attaching the Sides and Center Panels to the Bottom Panel:

  1. Have a friend hold the bottom panel upright on its long side edge while you attach the side panels to it. To attach the side panels, apply a line of wood glue along the 20-inch edge of a side panel then press it flush with the end of the bottom panel (1”x21¼”x93” lumber). Temporarily hold the side piece in place using a nail gun with 1 1/4-inch brad nails through the bottom panel and into the side panel

  1. Drill four pilot holes using a 1/8-inch countersink drill bit down the edge of the bottom panel and into the side panel. Use a Philips head drill bit to secure the panels together with 1 1/2-inch wood screws

  1. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for adding the second side panel
  2. To add the center panel, measure the center point along the bottom panel and mark with a pencil
  3. Apply wood glue to the 22-inch edge of the center panel, and then line it up with the pencil mark on the bottom panel. Place a carpenter square on each side of the center panel and hold in place with bar clamps. This will help stop the center panel shifting out of place while it’s being secured with screws


  1. Repeat Step 3 to secure the center panel in place

Assembling and Adding the Back Panel:

  1. Place the back panel (1”x13½”x93” lumber) on a flat work surface. Run a line of glue along the long 2-inch edge and press the back support (1”x2”x93” lumber) onto it so it’s flush with the edge. Use a nail gun with (3) 1 1/4-inch brad nails to temporarily hold it in place
  2. Drill six pilot holes using a 1/8-inch countersink drill bit through the length of the back support and into the back panel. Use a Philips head drill bit to secure the pieces together with 1 1/2-inch wood screws
  3. Run a line of glue along the second long edge of the back panel, and press the back cleat (1”x4”x93” lumber), 4-inch narrow side down onto it
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In order for the back panel and cleat to fit against the slope of the ceiling, it needs to be cut to match the slope of the side panels.

  1. Measure the angle of the slope on the side panel and mark that measurement on the back panel and cleat. Use a circular saw to cut off the excess wood
  2. To attach the back panel to the rest of the assembled frame, apply glue along the top of each side/center panels and along the side edge of the back panel. Working with a partner, place the back panel on top of the frame

  1. Drill three pilot holes using a 1/8-inch countersink drill bit through each end of the back panel and into the side panels. Use a Philips head drill bit to secure the pieces together with 1 1/2-inch wood screws



Adding the Top Panel:

  1. Apply glue along the edges of the frame where the top panel will be placed. This will be on the sloped edge of the side and center panels. Place the top panel (1”x22½”x93” lumber) onto the frame and temporarily secure in place with 1 1/4-inch brad nails from the nail gun. Secure the panel permanently in place by drilling 1/8-inch countersink pilot holes, (4 along each side and 4 along the top edge), and then use a Philips head drill bit to secure the top panel to your frame with 1 1/2-inch wood screws


Installation:

  1. Measure the wall between the pre-existing sides of the entertainment unit, 4 1/4 inches down from the ceiling and mark with a pencil. Draw a horizontal line across the wall using a level to make sure it’s straight. Use a stud finder to find 6 studs along the pencil line. Hold each support cleat up to the pencil line and drill three pilot holes with a 1/8-inch countersink bit through each cleat and into the wall. Secure in place with 3-inch drywall screws into the studs

  1. With the help of a couple of friends, lift the frame onto the wall cleats. To secure it in place, use a stud finder to locate the studs behind the frame. Pilot 12 holes with a drill and 1/8-inch countersink bit through the back of the frame and into the wall studs. Use a Philips head drill bit to secure the frame to the wall with 3-inch drywall screws. Cover the screws with wood filler and a putty knife

  1. Drill 4 additional 1/8-inch countersink pilot holes into each side of the frame and into the existing unit. Secure in place with 1 1/4-inch wood screws


Adding Wood Trim and Crown Molding:

  1. Apply wood glue along the bottom edge of the frame and press the longest piece of trim (1”x2”x93”) over it. Use a nail gun with 1 1/4-inch brad nails spaced every 12 inches to secure it in place

  2. Repeat Step 18 for adding the short trim (1”x2”x19”) to the three vertical edges on the front of the frame

  3. To add the crown molding, apply wood glue along the top edge of the frame and the pre-existing unit. Press the longest piece of crown molding (14’7 ½”) over the glue and secure in place with 1 1/4-inch brad nails spaced every 12 inches

  4. Repeat Step 20 for adding the 22-inch short pieces of crown molding to the sides of the unit

Painting and Adding Accent Wallpaper:

  1. Place a large drop cloth on the floor around your entertainment unit and use decorator’s tape to mask off the walls around it. With a large decorator brush, paint the entertainment unit and allow paint to dry. Apply a second coat of paint and allow to dry before moving on to the next step

  2. On each cabinet door in the unit, measure the width x height of the recessed panels and make a note of them
    Using the measurements from Step 22 cut pieces of wallpaper to fit into each recessed panel
    Apply spray glue to one piece of wallpaper at a time and press them onto the recessed panels




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