Murphy Dining Table

Murphy Dining Table

This project makes a table that has one end attached to the wall and can be stowed as a framed picture when not in use.


5 col

Difficulty: Difficult

You’ll Need: Jigsaw

Materials
(2) 42” x 32” x 5/8” Pine sanded plywood
(2) 4” tee hinges with hardware
Lid support hinge – left
Lid support hinge - right
30” Piano hinge
(4) ½” Screw eye hooks
(2) ½” S-hooks
(6) 2” Drywall screws
Protective enamel paint – color of your choice
(2) Large paintbrushes
Sponge paint roller
Paint tray
Tape measure
Pencil
Wood glue
Spray glue
Drill with Phillips head bit
(4) 12” Bar clamps
Decoupage glue
20” x 36” photo - Image of your choice
Speed square
Safety glasses
Yardstick
Rubber gloves
Stud finder

Instructions

MAKING THE TABLE LEG AND LOWER FRAME:
The table leg and lower frame will be cut from one piece of 42” x 32” x 5/8” pine sanded plywood. Use the image below as reference for Steps 1- 6

1. To make the lower frame, measure 12” up both 42” sides of the plywood and mark with a pencil. Connect the two pencil marks using a yardstick to make a straight line across the plywood

2. Put on safety glasses. Use a jigsaw to cut a straight line across the plywood using your 12” pencil line from Step 1 as a guide. You will now have two pieces of plywood that are sized 32” x 36” and 32” x 12”. Put the larger piece to one side. This will be used to make the table leg in later steps. The smaller piece will be used to make the lower frame (See diagram below)

3. To make the lower frame, measure 6” in along the 32” edge and mark with a pencil. Measure 6” down from the first 6” and mark with a pencil. Repeat on the opposite side. Connect the ends of the two 6” marks using a yardstick to make a straight line (See diagram below)

4. Use a jigsaw to cut along the pencil lines from Step 3 to make the lower frame. Set the lower frame to one side

5. To make the table leg, measure 6” in along the 32” edge and mark with a pencil. Measure 30” down from the first 6” and mark with a pencil. Repeat on the opposite side. Connect the ends of the two 30” marks using a yardstick to make a straight line (See diagram below)

6. Use a jigsaw to cut along the pencil lines from Step 5 to make the table leg

ASSEMBLING THE TABLE:

7. Lay the 42” x 32” x 5/8” plywood (tabletop) on your work surface and the table leg from Step 6 next to it so their 32” edges are flush with each other. Center the 30” piano hinge along the join where the two pieces meet. Test to make sure that when the table leg is raised, the hinge folds with it (See images below)

8. Secure the piano hinge to the tabletop and the table leg using a drill with a Phillips head bit and the screws that came with the hinge. The spine of the hinge will protrude outside the edge of the wood when the two pieces of wood are closed (See images below)

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9. To add the lower frame to the table top, apply wood glue over one side and lower it onto the table top so all edges are aligned. Hold the lower frame in place with four bar clamps while the wood glue dries. Allow the glue to dry for 30 minutes before moving on to the next step (See images below)

10. Paint all sides of the table with enamel paint and allow to dry for 24 hours or until dry before moving on to the next step

ADDING THE SIDE HINGES:

11. Open up the table leg to 90° from the tabletop and check with a speed square the angle is correct. Measure and mark with a pencil 6 7/8” from the piano hinge edge of the table leg up the side and again along the table top edge. These are the points where the lid support hinge will attach to the table. Hold the hinge up to the side of the table and secure it in place using a drill with a Phillips head bit and the hardware that came with the hinge

12. Repeat Step 11 for the opposite side of the table

ADDING THE IMAGE:

13. Put on rubber gloves. In a well-ventilated area spray glue the back of the photo and carefully press it down onto the table within the frame. Smooth out any air bubbles with a dry brush, starting in the center and pushing out to the edges

14. Raise the table leg and apply a generous coat of decoupage glue over the photo and the surrounding wood with a paintbrush. Once the glue is applied, smooth it out with a sponge paint roller. This will seal the image to the table and will dry clear. Allow the decoupage glue to dry for a minimum of 2 hours before moving on to the next step.

MOUNTING THE TABLE TO THE WALL:

15. Two tee hinges will be added to the tabletop so it can be attached to the wall. Place the table image side down on your work surface. To find the placement of the two tee hinges, measure 8” from each corner of the short table edge on the opposite end to the piano hinge. Center the hinges over the 8” mark and secure to the table using a drill with a Phillips head bit and the hardware that came with the hinges (See image below)

16. Decide on the wall where you wish to mount your table and measure 36” from the floor up the wall. Mark with a pencil. Use a stud finder to locate two studs along the wall at the 36” mark. They will be spaced 16” apart.

17. Prop up the murphy table against the wall so the two tee brackets are centered over the wall studs. Check with a 4’ level to make sure the table is straight. Secure the tee brackets to the wall using a drill with a Phillips head bit and 2” drywall screws. Note that when the table is in use, the image will be on the underside of the table and when it is stowed it will be seen hanging on the wall like a framed picture. (See images below)


18. To stow the table against the wall, measure and mark 8” along the top edge of the table leg right next to the piano hinge. Measure and mark another 8” along the top edge from the opposite corner. Screw a ½” screw eye hook into each mark (See image below)

19. Hold the table up against the wall in the stowed position. Make two marks on the wall with a pencil right above the table and in line with the ½” screw eye hooks from Step 18. Lower the table back down

20. Screw a ½” screw eye hook into the wall at each mark. Attach an S-hook to each screw eye hook in the wall. Use pliers to squeeze one side of the S-hook so it’s permanently attached to the screw eye hook in the wall. The S-hooks will be used as latches when the table is stowed. The hooks in the wall can be painted to match the wall color (See image below)

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